Wow, that became a long title!
As I’ve already hinted, this was a UFO which could be possible as a double number – 1313. The idea was to make a hood to fit a 14th century outfit, and since Codex Manesse (1300-1340) is full of people with buttons on sleeves and necklines, I’m using that as an excuse to put some buttons to this project too. So this is a possible 1313-hood. The links I’ve used for this project, as well as the history of a UFO, can be read (at length!) in this post.
The lining in the opening is one of those ”historically possible”-parts – the original pattern had a lining intended, and some medieval illustrations show hoods with a lining in different colour. It’s also possible that the medieval garments didn’t have as much of the stitches showing on the front side (when felling down the seam allowances). I find it rather decorative though…
As I’m a big fan of dyeing, I will make a note on the colour of the hood as well. This type of green is possible to get with first a yellow dye and then a blue dye. Yellow is dead easy to get, as most green leaves will give a yellow colour to an originally white yarn/wool fabric. (The exception being if it’s dyed in an iron cauldron, as the iron leaks into the water and make it an olive-green colour instead.) The blue colour is trickier to get, as it involves woad, weeks of fermentation, adding and taking away oxygen, advanced historic chemistry etc etc. If you understand Swedish you can read about what happened to our failed attempt at woad-dyeing in this post. If you’re interested in the history of dyeing, I recommend this article about the early Iron Age bog finds in Denmark, and the blue and red dye of the garments. Anyway, this green colour would probably have been a rather rich colour.
I hope to make a proper photoshoot for the HSF-stuff some day soon. As it is now, when you don’t have a model, or a photographer, or even a seamstress-manequin (I don’t know the actual word in English, one of those you test your clothes on while sewing…) – you make do with what you have. In my case, what I had was a chair….
How I made the buttons can be seen in this post. I used a linen lining to support the buttonholes and the fastening of the buttons. The fastening of buttons at the edge of garments is something I picked up from The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant years back. I think for a hood it would also have worked to put the buttons like we’re used to place them, a bit in from the edge.
Lessons learned of this project:
- Do research before starting the project – not when you’re midway through.
- Make the seam allowances larger than 4-5 mm – then you can afford to cut one of them and fell the other one over, which will make the seams flatter than if you have to save both of them.
- To make buttonholes is boring at the beginning, but you’ll get into it. And you’ll get to have buttons on the garment at the end of it, which is always nice.
- Oh, and don’t hurt your wrist two days before deadline. That is a great lesson learned.
The last days of the challenge, I had a taped thumb and wrist, and timed 20 minutes work, then at least 1½ hour rest. So, word of advice to everyone: If you feel like your wrist is hurting – take a break!
The Challenge: # 1 Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial – Something from a year __13.
Fabric: Green wool
Pattern: Drafted by one of my teachers. I did a few changes to it.
Year: 1313, double numbers have a charm
Notions: Linen (flax) thread, beeswax, linen lining, fancy-weave (again, the English words are lost to me…) yellow-black wool
How historically accurate is it? It’s more on the historically possible-side, but that’s true for many of the garments from the medieval period.
Hours to complete: Approx 2½ years, this being a UFO… A few movie nights since I took it up again.
First worn: At the Medieval Week in Gotland 2010 – unfinished.
Total cost: Can’t really remember, it was all in stash.